Lauterbrunnen, Switzerland

Arrival into Lauterbrunnen station. [The platform on the right is in a scene in On Her Majesty’s Secret Service.]

In the Alpine valley that inspired Tolkien’s Rivendell sits the village of Lauterbrunnen. Dotted with waterfalls and surrounded by snowy peaks, the valley offers the very best of Swiss scenery and activities, minus the dragons and elves, to visitors. We spend a week or so here each year—and it never disappoints or grows old.

The surrounding Jungfrau region flaunts a wealth of mountains, lakes, hikes, cows, Alpine flowers, cheese, chocolate, gondolas and trains, fondue, raclette, and rösti. Several of the country’s best known peaks reside here as well—the Schilthorn, Eiger, Monch, and Jungfrau—as well as lesser known spots like Kleine Scheidegg and Schynige Platte.

There are lots of bases from which to see the area, including the area’s biggest city Interlaken, the more upscale Grindelwald, and two towns that sit higher up the valley, Wengen and Mürren. Each has its charms, and all are worth visiting. Travel writer Rick Steves suggests tiny mountain village Gimmelwald, which is too tiny and too remote for my taste. 

Scenery for days and weeks.

So why here? Lauterbrunnen tops all of these for its homey feel, proximity to sights, and size—not too big (see Interlaken), not too small (see Gimmelwald), not too developed (see Grindelwald), and easy to get to (which lets out Mürren and Wengen, unless you’re there to ski).

The valley is the launching point for the area’s two top sights, the Schilthorn and Jungfrau. Each offers a memorable experience and simply stunning views in clear weather, and both are accordingly crowded. The Jungfrau requires a longer trip, costs more, and is more crowded, but its billing as ‘the Top of Europe’ keeps it a top draw. The Schilthorn is topped by the Piz Gloria station, with a 360º observation deck, a revolving restaurant, and a fun museum that documents the James Bond movie (On Her Majesty’s Secret Service) filmed there.

Our choice is the Schilthorn; we’ve done the Jungfrau journey twice and the Schilthorn a dozen times. Both are discounted with the Swiss pass—still pricey, but worth the cost in clear weather. If the top of either is socked in with clouds, save yourself the trip. [You can check mountaintop webcams at Swisspanorama.com.]

I mean, seriously. [Seen at Schynige Platte.]

Want to dodge the barbaric hoards? There are other options. Schynige Platte is a high plateau with views over the area (and a unique viewpoint over the Eiger, Monch, and Jungfrau) hiking trails, and a restaurant. This can get crowded, too—but not like the two big peaks. On the other side of Interlaken are two even less famous (and even less crowded) options on either side of Lake Thun: the Niederhorn (again, amazing views, including over the lakes, and a restaurant) and the pyramid-shaped Mt. Niesen. If the piles of tourists drive you away from Schilthorn or Jungfrau, try one of these. Alternatively, one way to beat at least some of the crowd to these sights is to go early—like first train or gondola up.

Lake Thun, from the Niederhorn.

Mountain peaks aside, there are many, many other opportunities to bask an Alpine glory. Hike down the valley from Lauterbrunnen toward Stechelberg, stopping Trummelbach Falls, which cut a twisty path through the inside of  the cliff wall. From Wengen, take the cable car up to Mannlichen, hike to Kleine Scheidegg, and take the train back down, to Lauterbrunnen or Grindelwald. Grindelwald itself is loaded with shops and restaurants. And just outside of town, adventurers can take a gondola up to First, where the Bachalpsee, hikes, a zipline, ‘Trottibikes,’ and mountain carts, by which to sling oneself down the mountain, await. 

Back in the Lauterbrunnen valley, tiny Isenfluh sits just below even tinier Sulwald. Take the cable car up to see yet another perspective on the Alps, crowd-free. [Reach Isenfluh by a special bus from Lauterbrunnen; check the SBB app or at the train station for schedule.]  

Weather not cooperating? Take a daytrip to Bern, the Swiss capital known for its arcaded shopping streets and bear park.  Or venture even further afield to Gstaad or even Montreux. Take a boat trip on one of the lakes (Thun or Brienz) that straddle Interlaken, or a train trip to Meiringen (home to the Aare Gorge, the Reichenbach Falls and a tiny Sherlock Holmes museum). Or hit the open air Ballenberg Museum near Brienz. If that’s not enough options, ask your hotel staff for others. 

We stay annually at Hotel Staubbach, the yellow building in the picture atop this post, a creaky, century-old lodge with an amazing breakfast, endearing staff, and up-close views of the Staubbach Falls from many rooms. It’s not the Ritz, and there are no TVs in the rooms—but who needs a TV with a view like the one out on the balcony? We split our dinners here between the restaurants at Hotel Oberland, Hotel Silberhorn, and Camping Jungfrau, the last a short walk out of town. [Bonus: you can do laundry at the campground, too.] Food in Switzerland is notoriously expensive. Happily, the non-stop mountain views are worth the price of admission.

Want to visit Switzerland, or discover other soon-to-be favorite places in Europe? I’m a travel advisor specializing in Europe and European river cruises. Shoot me an e-mail, and I’ll help you make it happen.  

Me, at the Bachalpsee above First.