A guide to the best of Amsterdam

I’d never been to Amsterdam before May 2018—but after a quick visit then, I returned twice more in less than a year. Guess I liked it. You probably will, too.

A couple of warnings: it’s crowded. And your walking around the city will occasionally take you through clouds of funny-smelling smoke. Neither is a draw for me—and yet . . .

The city’s out-sized personality, unique character, architecture, landscape, and flavor keep drawing me back. I’d quite liked Copenhagen; I quickly loved Amsterdam. The Dutch people, contrary to Austin Powers-ian stereotype, are generally friendly, and everyone I’ve interacted with spoke excellent English and didn’t seem to mind doing so. The city is loaded with culture—disproportionally so for the biggest city of a tiny European country—thanks to its long colonial and trade history.

There are several big sights on most visitors’ lists: the Rijksmuseum, Van Gogh Museum*, Anne Frank House*, the canals (by boat, of course), and the Red Light District. Do these (although I skip the Red Light District, which seems more depressing than interesting to me). But don’t overlook some less-famous but just-as-worth-seeing sights like the Dutch Resistance Museum, Amsterdam Museum, and the Stedelijk Museum for modern art. I’ll focus on the latter group for this posting.

* If the Van Gogh Museum or Anne Frank House are must-sees for you, you’ll need to book tickets online well in advance.* Plan on getting Anne Frank tickets at least two months ahead of schedule. It’s worth seeing—but very crowded. I found the Corrie Ten Boom house in Haarlem much more affecting. More on that below.

The Stedelijk Museum presents a big spread of modern art and design just down from the Rijks- and Van Gogh Museums. Not one of Europe’s best, but well worth a visit. And for more modern art, check in at the nearby Moco. Last I was there, they had Banksy and Liechtenstein on display, including a very interesting Liechtenstein ‘apartment’ installation in the basement. Combine your museum-seeing with a stroll through the Vondelpark—or an Indonesian lunch at nearby Sama Sebo (see food gallery at the bottom).

Below: a kinetic sculpture, a light sculpture, and Liechtenstein (all from the Stedelijk); the Liechtenstein ‘apartment’ installation at Moco; Rembrandt and Van Gogh representin’ at the Rijksmuseum.

The Anne Frank House is moving—but you get a broader insight into the Dutch struggle with the Nazis at the far less-crowded Dutch Resistance Museum (or Verzetsmuseum) over near the zoo (look for Artis on the map). The museum continually presents to the visitor the question ‘what would you do?’ as it recounts the history of the Netherlands under Nazi occupation.

Even Grover is impressed by the city museum.

City museums often disappoint in my experience; the Amsterdam Museum does not. It presents the city’s (and country’s) history in interesting, visually arresting ways and sets a high bar for this oft-attempted but rarely well-executed type of museum. The nearby Begijnhof is a courtyard of houses and a chapel, once home to a women’s religious community (once = 600 years ago), and also worth a quick stop.

It’s possible to weave many of Amsterdam’s biggest sights together on a single walk, although there are too many stops to see everything at once. From Centraal Station, walk down the Damrak to Dam Square, then cut over to the Begijnjof and Amsterdam Museum. From there you’ll pass Spui (rhymes with ‘wow’) and the flower market, turning onto Leidsestraat, a busy shopping street, headed toward Leidesplein. Finally, head over toward the Rijksmuseum and its museum friends. Or, you could cross the river by Dam Square to shop the 9 Streets area and head over into the Jordaan. You can also start at the Rijksmuseum or Vondelpark and work backwards.

For two field trip options, consider a day trip to Haarlem. Twenty-or-so minutes away by train, Haarlem’s big square and stroll-able streets are a pleasant break from the tourist crush back in Amsterdam. It’s also home to one of my favorite WW2/Holocaust-related sights: the Corrie Ten Boom house.

Ten Boom was, in the early 1940s, a middle-aged spinster who lived at home with her elderly father and her other spinster sister, who together ran a watch shop. The invasion by the Nazis and their obsession with the ‘Jewish problem’ would change her into the ringleader of a Jew smuggling ring, providing ration cards for families and hiding Jews looking to escape the Nazis in a tiny hidden space in her room, which visitors can see. I get chills thinking about it. She wrote about her experience of saving hundreds of Jews before being sent to a concentration camp in The Hiding Place (-affiliate link to the book). The word ‘inspiring’ is shamefully overused today—but her story truly is inspiring, and visiting the house moved me deeply. Check opening days/times and reserve tickets in advance (you’ll have to book in advance to visit) here.

Seen below: Haarlem station, the main square, the Ten Boom house and hiding place, some details from the Great Church, and street scene.

For a different kind of day trip, consider a bike tour out to Zaanse Schans, Marken, and Volendam to see some of the Dutch countryside, windmills, and more. Here’s one option (and that is a bookable, affiliate link).

Back in town, wander through the Jordaan neighborhood or the shops lining the ‘9 Streets,’ or visit the Museum Van Loon, the 17thcentury home to one of the founders of the Dutch East India Company. A canal cruise and/or a bike tour would be a great way to round out your time here.

Food is a big feature of a visit to Amsterdam; aside from sampling Indonesian food (mentioned earlier), the Foodhallen is the best spot to try lots of different options. It’s huge and has more different foods than you’ve got stomach to hold them. It’s been crowded when I’ve been, but it’s worth braving the crowd to do some tasty sampling.

Pancakes are a staple here, and we’ve had several good breakfasts (and other meals) at PANCAKES Amsterdam (multiple locations, including both in front of and behind Centraal Station). The thinner pancakes are better, IMO. For something different and un-touristy, try tapas at La Oliva in the Jordaan neighborhood, or Dutch cuisine at Van Speyk on Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal, across from the Kimpton Hotel. (I recommend that hotel; also, mind the little curb in the middle of the street, I learned the hard way.) [Below, three kinds of pancakes, lunch at Sama Sebo, and a snapshot of the many, varied stalls at a the Foodhallen.]

Want to visit Amsterdam, or other amazing places in Europe? I’m a travel advisor specializing in Europe and European river cruises. Shoot me an e-mail, and I’ll help you make it happen.