A guide to the best sights in Nürnberg, Germany

Bavaria’s second city is a survivor. Bombed into oblivion in WW2, Nürnberg persevered, recovered, and preserved its history. The city serves up an engaging, less-sprawling alternative to the busier, bigger Munich about an hour away.

Nürnberg impresses with its stroll-able, Insta-worthy old town, complete with a castle and intact city wall, its chilling Nazi Dokumentationzentrum and rally grounds, the still-in-use courtroom from Nürnberg trials, its own mini-version of the ubiquitous bratwurst, and its proximity to many other day trip-able sights. [We’ll use Nürnberg as a hub on our upcoming Germany/Austria trip to take advantage of this.]

Arriving at the train station, follow the signs for the ‘Altstadt,’ as you head down the escalators and through a broad tunnel. As you exit, walking up a short ramp, you’re in the old town. At the top of the ramp, take an immediate U-turn to the left to find the Handwerkhof, a recreated medieval market tucked into the city wall. It’s a perfect starting point for seeing the city.

The Handwerkstat shops are enclosed by the old city wall.

Head back to top of the ramp, and continue on into the old town/away from the station.

If you’re hungry, the Hans im Gluck on the left has good burgers and salads. [Two tips: the multi-grain bun gets soggy too quickly, and they tend to over-sauce things. Might ask for sauces on the side if that bugs you, as it does me.] Alternatively, head on up the street, where you’ll find many other food local options farther on.

The old town is dotted with major landmarks, most on or just off this main street: the Lorenzkirch in the center of town; the Holy Ghost Hospital (Heilligeist Spital), which can be spied from the bridge just past the church, the Hauptmarkt square and its aptly named Beautiful Fountain, two more churches, the Rathaus (town hall),and finally the castle sitting at the opposite end of the altstadt from the train station. All of this is surrounded by a mostly in-tact medieval wall, begun in the 12th century.

Some stops along the route: the Karstadt department store has a grocery in its basement, handy for drinks, picnic shopping, etc. Pick up some Niederegger marzipan while you’re down there.

There’s an outpost of the wonderful Käthe-Wohlfahrt Christmas store on the same block (if you’re going to Rothenburg, hit their bigger stores there). Souvenir shop near the Beautiful Fountain is a good one, and the Tourist Info office there can set you up with a walking tour.

Beautiful Fountain, Hauptmarkt, and Frauenkirche

All along the street, you’ll find vendors selling, among other things, Lebkuchen,the gingerbread cookie that’s one of Nürnberg’s culinary claims to fame. The other is tiny brats, which can also be found on the street. If time and hunger permit, wait to grab these at the famous Bratwursthäusle up the street from the fountain on the market square, just beyond the Rathaus.

Walk up the hill to explore the 11thcentury Kaiserburg castle or the timbered Albrecht Dürer house, home to the famed German Renaissance artist, nearby.

One sight I found skippable: the dark, uninteresting collection of the German National Museum. The national museums in Berlin (history) and Munich (science and tech, transport) are much better.

Hotels here: the Hotel Drei Raben is a fun, quirky boutique hotel about two blocks from the station. A block further up, Hotel Melter’s rooms all feature seating areas and kitchenettes. [We really liked this area—is close to everything. Be forewarned: Melter is a good deal, but its beds are not the most comfortable I’ve ever slept in.] And around the corner from the Melter is Boehm’s Herrenkeller, a terrific traditional restaurant. [Obligatory food pix below.]

Want to visit resilient Nürnberg, or see more of Bavaria? I’m a travel advisor specializing in Europe and European river cruises. Shoot me an e-mail, and I’ll help you make it happen.