Many Americans know Salzburg from its starring role in The Sound Of Music, which spotlights the beautiful scenery of the town and its surrounding mountains, and also its love of music. Whether you love or hate the film, there’s much to love in Salzburg.
A view across the Salzach River to the old town and fortress.
From the train station, it’s a 15 minute walk into the old town (or a short cab ride). Start on Getreidegasse but wander farther among the warren of shops selling souvenirs, traditional Austrian attire (not just costumes here—Austrians wear the tab-collared jackets and dirndls), schnapps, etc. Head to Residenzplatz, along the side of the Salzburger Dom, the prettiest church in town with a beautiful, soaring Baroque interior. Salzburg’s old town rewards wandering.
Salzburg Cathedral
Stop next at St. Peter’s Abby; its garden-like cemetery is the setting for a pivotal scene in The Sound Of Music (but note that it’s relocated in the film adjacent to the fortress, rather than below it). Work your way over to the base of the funicular to visit ‘Festung Hohensalzburg,’ a fortress dating back to the eleventh century that loom over the old town. It’s well worth an hour’s tour. You can round trip back down the funicular (or walk back down, though it gets a little steep)—or, hike across Mönschberg (this is also steep in places) to the modern art museum at the opposite end, and take the elevator down.
Two of Salzburg’s distinctive spires
Hungry yet? Sternbrau offers traditional Austrian fare in both beer garden and inside settings just off Getreidegasse. Burgerista closer to the river has surprisingly good burgers, club sandwiches, etc. Spaghetti & Co. has good pizzas and salads. And Café Tomaselli on the Alter Markt has an array of desserts and drinks to salivate over. [Bonus: Mozart was a customer.] Two spots are across the river in the ‘new’ town: one of my favorite spots is Zum Fidelen Affen (the ‘trusty monkey’), which offers Austrian food with a twist (try the ‘monkey steak,’ and no, it’s not made of monkeys). It’s not unusual to share a big table here with another party or two. That’s a European thing that may seem odd to Americans at first blush. Roll with it. On the main drag back to the train station, Imlauer Sky Bar gives guests a view over the city, a fine spot for a cappuccino, cake, light lunch or cocktail.
Me in Mirabell, with the fortress just over my head in the distance.
If you just can’t get enough Sound Of Music, there are several tours for you (some of which involve singing—be forewarned). Alternatively, there are two Mozart sights—his birthplace on the Getreidegasse and his apartment another just across the river in the ‘new’ town. Both have exhibits dedicated to the composer (I’ve visited the apartment museum—worth seeing—but not the birthplace.) Up the street from his apartment, find Mirabell Gardens, from which you can enjoy one of the loveliest views in town, a panorama of the old town, fortress, and gardens.
Two sights further afield: Hangar 7, a short taxi, ride share, or bus ride from the old town towards the airport, houses the airplanes, race cars, and other fast-moving vehicles collected by Red Bull’s founder. The complex includes a café, bar, and fine-dining restaurant, and all the Red Bull paraphernalia one could want.
Powered by Red Bull, at Hangar 7.
A bit further out, Hellbrunn Palace entertains with a garden full of trick fountains. Not much of a palace, but the gardens, now the home to the Sound Of Music gazebo, are fun. [Glance around for wet spots and avoiding standing in them unless you’re ok getting a little wet.]
Water fountains at Schloss (castle) Hellbrunn just outside Salzburg
Pretty Hallstatt is wedged between a deep Alpine lake and surrounding mountains.
There’s still more to see nearby: the Salzkammergut lakes region offers a couple of appealing day trips—to the closer Wolfgangsee, and further out but even more lovely Hallstatt, which itself is worth a night or two if you can spare them.
Street in St. Wolfgang.
Another possibility is to cross the nearby border with Germany to Berchtesgaden to see Hitler’s Eagle’s Nest, a chilling WW2 sight with amazing mountain views. Its ugly history seems wholly incompatible with the setting.
Christmas finds the Salzburg decked out, its surrounding mountains typically ringed with snow, and a myriad of Christmas markets popping up all over town.
Want to visit Salzburg, or other sights in Austria? I’m a travel advisor specializing in Europe and European river cruises. Shoot me an e-mail, and I’ll help you make it happen.
Christmastime in Salzburg
