What to see and do in Lucerne, Switzerland

Want to know what to see in Luzern, Switzerland? You’re in the right place.

Planted between lake and mountain, Switzerland’s prettiest city Luzern (or Lucerne, if you prefer) offers a packed day or two of varied sights—cruising on the lake, ascending Mt. Pilatus by lift or cog-wheel train, or exploring the old town’s painted facades, shops, and attractions.

Luzern has always been special to me: it was the first stop on my first overseas trip the summer after my junior year of high school—and it hooked me on travel and Europe. Give it two nights and discover why for yourself.

Switzerland is split into three language regions—Italian (southeast), French (west), and Swiss-German-speaking (the rest). Luzern, Zürich, Bern, Basel, and the Berner Oberland are all in the Swiss-German part, where you’ll find most people speak excellent English (and are more willing to do so than the other two areas, in my experience). I speak some German and find Swiss-German hard to decipher. If you speak ‘regular’ German, most people should understand you.

The main train station is on the edge of the lake and the edge of the old town, easy walking distance from most sights. It’s possible to stop through here, pop your bag in a locker, and go exploring—but Luzern is worth more than a drive-by.

Start out towards the Chapel Bridge, 700 year-old wooden bridge lined with flowers and dotted with paintings tucked up under its covered peak. The bridge nearly burned down in 1993 but has been restored. It’s a beautiful gateway to the old town, and a preview of the painted facades that decorate it.

Wander through the old town’s jumble of streets and admire those facades, a fountain or two, and a collection of Switzerland’s retail options. Stores from native brands Victorinox (knives and luggage, at Hirschenplatz 12) and Mammut (outdoor/athletic wear, at Weinmarkt 20) and the ultra-nice Bucherer outpost (watches galore, at Schwanenplatz 5) are all worth a visit. The Manor grocery and department store chain has a large store in the middle of the old town (Weggisgasse 5); its top-floor cafeteria offers affordable lunch entrees, pizza, and a killer grilled chicken salad. (They’re open for dinner, but the selection is less fresh/more picked over. It’s more crowded at noon—but stick to lunch.) Finally, it’s possible to conclude a swing through the old town with a quick climb up on the old city wall on its northern edge for some sweeping views.

Heading east and north, you’ll emerge from the old town near the Löwendenkmal, Luzern’s famous Lion Monument to the Swiss Guards. Pass the Old Swiss House (a good but very pricey dinner option) and walk north to the monument and its surrounding sights. The Alpineum, located across the street, is worth a 15-20 minute stop. The glacier garden (just above the monument) and nearby Bourbaki Panorama are less worth the time. The lion monument is open air and free to visit; the others charge admission but are covered by a Swiss travel pass (but not a multi-country Eurail pass).

The famous Lion Monument memorializes the Swiss Guard killed in the French Revolution.

Head back toward the train station, and find the river boats docked out front. These can be used for a quick water taxi run, or in good weather for a longer, relaxing, and highly recommended cruise on Lake Luzern. (This is covered by the Swiss pass.) Hop on, and enjoy an hour or two of leisure on the lake. Alternatively, look for the ‘Verkehrshaus’ stop, for the Swiss Transportation Museum. Hop off here, and walk across the field to the museum.

The great wall of cars—each is retrievable by a robotic apparatus.

Packed with examples of Swiss transportation innovations of the last two centuries, the ‘Verkehrshaus’ offers visitors of all ages a couple of hours’ worth of surprisingly interesting exhibits. The train and car buildings are probably the best, but the museum also has buildings dedicated to air/space and boat travel. My favorite: the wall of cars, each of which is retrieved by a huge robotic arm and pulled down to give guests a closer look. Amazing. There’s also an IMAX theater, a restaurant, and the ‘Swiss chocolate experience.’ [The Swiss pass gives visitors half-off admission.]

One more museum is worth a mention: the Rosengart Collection up the street from the Bahnhof at Pilatusstrasse 10. It features a number of works by Picasso and Swiss artist Paul Klee (who has his own museum in Bern), as well as pieces by Cézanne, Monet, and Matisse. It’s worth visiting for serious art lovers or Picasso fans and is covered by the Swiss pass—but I find its collection a little dark and bland.

Another clear day activity: the roundtrip to Mt. Pilatus is beautiful and employs a fun variety of transportation methods (out by boat or train, up by cog-wheel train, back by gondola and bus). This is only worth doing if the weather’s clear.

Dining in Switzerland can be joltingly expensive. Wirtshaus Taube across the river south from the old town has reliably good and relatively affordable Swiss food and tables right on the river.

Other more affordable options: A handful of pizza and doner kabap places dot the old town; there are cafeterias in both the Coop and the Manor (already mentioned) department stores, and a big grocery store and several dine-in/take-away options under the train station.

We’ve tried two hotels here: the Ameron Flora, just between Pilatusstrasse and the chapel bridge, a business-y hotel with a bit of quirky/boutiquey flair; and Hotel Stern, a bit farther away from the station. If the former has availability and fits your budget, try it.

Switzerland’s appeals are found mainly outside its cities, but Luzern is a pleasant exception.

Want to visit Luzern, or other sights in Switzerland or the rest of Europe? I’m a travel advisor specializing in Europe and European river cruises. Shoot me an e-mail, and I’ll help you make it happen.