The best things to see and do in Rothenburg ob der Tauber

[Expanded with more info, more pix, more fun, 10/22.]

Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany, is simply one of Europe’s most beautiful small towns. Its medieval, walled old town hides a scenic moment around every corner. [And the ‘ob der Tauber’ of its name means ‘above the Tauber River,’ which skirts the old town.]

It’s not super-easy to get to, requiring a couple of train-changes from pretty much anywhere, but it’s well worth the trouble. [From the Frankfurt airport by train, travel to Würzburg, then change trains to Steinach, and there change to Rothenburg o.d.T., a journey of just over three hours. (Depending on the time, there may be an extra train-change in there.)]

Some highlights:

Käthe Wahlfahrt Christmas stores- Like Christmas? It’s here year-round. Their two-building main store and museum sit just off Rothenburg’s town square and are packed to the ceiling with ornaments, beer steins, cuckoo clocks, souvenirs, and more ornaments. My tree is packed with ornaments from here. Check it.

The wall- The old town is surrounded by an oval of walls, towers, and city gates contracted between the 1170s and early 1200s, many of which can be explored. The best bits, from the town square: Plönlein to the south and the Spitaltor (gates) beyond it, the castle garden and overlook to the west, and the Markusturm (tower) and Rödertor (gate) to the east. You can walk along long stretches of the wall, giving you a view out over the town and its surroundings. ‘Charming’ doesn’t do it justice.

The church- There are several, but the big attraction is St Jacob’s Church. Wander around the main floor, but don’t miss the beautiful and moving carved wooden altar hidden away in the organ loft. [Seen above, multiple pictures of the wooden altar, also the main altar downstairs.]

[Gallery below— Rothenburg: making even the grumpiest visitors smile. Also the non-grumpy. (My dad, and my happier clients the Gibsons, the Griffiths.)]

The shops- Aside from the excellent Christmas stores, there’s a Steiff store at the main intersection with a menagerie of stuffed animals (priced $$$). Just off the main square on Obere Schmiedgasse (towards Plönlein, aka south), look for Bunte Truhe (pewter decorations for all seasons) and the Waffenkammer (weapons chamber) which has knives (kitchen, Swiss Army, etc.) and Renaissance-faire costumes, if that’s your thing. Towards the castle gardens (west), you’ll find my favorite of the print shops in town, Galerie zum Burgtor, whose owner always offers me brandy or wine whilst I browse. Smart lady.

The rest- Rothenburg rewards wandering, as visitors find shops, architectural surprises, and good dining all around the old town. The medieval crime and punishment museum and its dungeon are worth a stop (I especially remember this and the Christmas store from my trip here as a kid).

Staying at least one night here gives visitors more of the town to themselves after the tourist busses have gone, and leaves time for the fun Nightwatchman tour and a nice meal. (I’ve done the Nightwatchman tour three times, and it’s not gotten old yet.) I suggest two nights here to give visitors a full day’s sightseeing in between; three nights gives one time to side trip to nearby Nürnberg.

Eating, Staying-

I save my hotel and restaurant recommendations for my clients. (I’m a travel adviser specializing in Europe and European river cruises.) Want to plan a visit Rothenburg ob der Tauber, or other amazing places in Germany? Shoot me an e-mail, and I’ll help you make it happen.

[Gallery below: seen around Rothenburg—Rathaus/main square, Plönlein, Markusturm, castle gardens, and looking towards the main square from near Klosterstüble.]