Located near Germany’s Baltic Sea coast about an hour north of Hamburg, Lübeck is likely a town you’ve never heard of. The big guidebooks either gloss over or ignore it, but I’d argue it’s one of Germany’s most interesting towns and one almost entirely overlooked by American tourists.
The city, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and the hometown of novelist Thomas Mann and Nobel Peace Prize winner/West German chancellor Willy Brandt, also works well as a home base from which to explore neighboring Hamburg or Kiel, both an hour away by train or car. I first came here to visit family, and in visiting them over the years, I’ve come to love Lübeck. Below, the Holstentor as seen from the outside and then city side.
The city’s old town sits on an island between the Trave and Wakenitz Rivers, a few miles inland from the Baltic. From the main train station, which sits just outside the old city, head east a couple of blocks to the Holstentor, Lübeck’s best-known landmark. Built in1478 to protect against invaders from the north, this iconic building was featured the 50 Deutschmark note before the introduction of the Euro. Today, the building leans slightly to one side and houses an interesting museum on the town’s history, focused on trade. That’s a theme in the town, which is also home to the new-ish Hanseatic Museum.
In the 13th century, Lübeck was one of Germany’s largest cities and became trading hub on Baltic Sea—capitalizing on its location at the crossroads between Germany, England, Norway, and Russia. This trading network grew across northern Europe to include parts of Russia, Poland, Lithuania, Latvia, Estonia, Belgium, England, Sweden, and Germany under the banner of the Hanseatic League. Lübeck was its capital. Below, scenes from the Holstentor’s museum.
Old salt warehouses along the riverfront near the Holstentor.
Many of the town’s landmarks—the cathedral, Marienkirche, St. Petri Kirche, and the Heilig-Geist Spital—were built in this period. If Lübeck seems much grander than a now-small city in northern Germany, this is why. The old town’s architecture is characterized by red brick, tall spires, and step-gabled buildings. Bombed in 1942 by Allies (in retaliation for German assaults on London and Coventry), the town rebounded and now has a quiet, aging grandeur that’s appealing alternative to the much busier Hamburg.
From the Holstentor, walk into the old town and turn right to visit the Petrikirche (St. Peter’s). No longer in use as a church, the building now serves an exhibition space—with an observation deck 15 stories up that gives a 360º overview of the town center.
The Marienkirche, town hall, market square, and a modern department store, from St. Petri.
Next, head back north to the Rathaus, market square, and Marienkirche. The distinctive, twin-spired ‘Mary’s church’ is the town’s prettiest and has the world’s highest brick-made vaulted roof. Heavily damaged during the ’42 bombing, the church’s bells fell 20 stories – and were left as a disarming and powerful memorial to the war’s destruction. The church hosts a wealth of carved reliefs, stained glass, and a remarkable altarpiece. Below, the bells, altar, and an astrological clock found in the Marienkirche.
Lübeck’s town hall.
The beautiful Gothic and Renaissance town hall, or Rathaus, wraps around a courtyard and features turrets, decorative tiles, and a complex structure constructed partly of black brick. It’s not as imposing as Hamburg or Munich’s—but to me, it’s more interesting.
Ready for a snack yet? Lübeck is famous for marzipan, and confectioner Niederegger has its flagship store across the street and also a café tucked up in the Rathaus’ arcade. You’ll find the brand’s marzipan (a candy made from almonds with various flavors and covered in chocolate) all over Germany and beyond. [You may find this in fancier grocery stores in the US at Christmas.]
From the main square, continue north to catch the rest of the old town’s sights along (or just off of) Breite Straße and Konigstraße. There, you’ll find yet another church, St. Jakobi Kirche (Jacob’s church)—historically the sailors’ church, and across the street, the 500-year-old Schiffergesellschaft, or sailors’ guild. The latter is now restaurant specializing in, of course, fish. It’s worth seeing, even if you only pop in for a drink. Below, the St. Jakobi altar and organ, and the Schiffergesellschaft.
The Holstentor as seen on the old 50 Deutschmark note. (From the Holstentor museum.)
Further on, you’ll find the town’s other remaining gate, the Burgtor, as well as the Heilig-Geist Spital (Holy Ghost Hospital) and the Günter Grass House. Head toward the waterfront to find Lübeck’s newest sight, the Hanseatic Museum, which documents the league and city’s entwined histories. Wander off the main streets on this north end of the old town and find the small neighborhoods with beautifully quaint old cottages.
From Lübeck, it’s a quick drive to the beach in Travemunde, and for on-the-water fun without the drive, there’s a little boat tour around the old town in warmer months.
For lodging, check out the Hotel Atlantic or Radisson Blu, both convenient to (or in) the old town. For a homier B&B option, try Hotel Pergola, in a quiet neighborhood about a 10-12 minute walk north of the Burgtor. The best meals I’ve had here have been at my cousin’s house, but in town, there are two really good Italian restaurants near each other just east of the main square—La Vigna and Miera. Both are recommended. As is Lübeck itself. Discover it before everyone else does.
Want to visit Lübeck, or other places in Germany? I’m a travel advisor specializing in Europe. Shoot me an e-mail, and I’ll help you make it happen.
